Return to the Big Easy
In post-Katrina New Orleans, we conduct a search for what’s new and affordable.
By Charles Williams, Post-Dispatch Online Entertainment Editor
7/3/2011
By Charles Williams, Post-Dispatch Online Entertainment Editor
7/3/2011
New Orleans’ French Quarter is a labyrinth of wrought iron and stucco, with paths leading to hidden talents, quaint courtyards and liquor-induced heartache. Day and night, life springs from its streets, which provide the connective tissue for a city that refuses to die.
The entire city engages the senses, from the wafting aroma of fresh-baked bread pudding to the putrid smell of Bourbon Street revelry. Ten years and one monster hurricane had passed since my last visit to New Orleans. My goal was to discover what was new or affordable, in the aftermath of Katrina’s destruction and Wall Street’s meltdown. AFFORDABLE EATS Creole restaurants such as Commander's Palace, Arnaud's Restaurant and Emeril's New Orleans are legendary. But with one eye on our wallet, we decided to forgo upscale ambiance in favor of value. Johnny and Betty De Grusha started Johnny's Po-Boys (511 St. Louis Street) in 1950, and the small eatery remains a popular lunch spot. French bread that's crunchy on the outside and soft on the inside is stuffed with a choice of more than 50 fillings. Adventurous eaters might opt for alligator sausage or boudin, but the traditional breaded shrimp po-boy ($10) dressed with lettuce, tomato, mayonnaise and pickles will not disappoint. Simply put, it's the best I've ever had. At the Camellia Grill, bow-tie clad waiters serve famous omelets ($7.49) and ice cream freezes ($3.69), along with a good dose of camaraderie. The original location (626 South Carrollton Avenue) opened in 1946, and it's still a treat to ride the St. Charles street car to enjoy a greasy burger ($3.99) or piece of apple pie ($3.69) warmed on the grill. Tourists won't be disappointed by the new, larger French Quarter location (540 Chartres Street), which opened late last year. |
The courtyard of the Gumbo Shop (630 St. Peter Street) is a great place to try a combination plate of crawfish étouffée, jambalaya and shrimp creole ($12.99). Reasonable prices and a rollicking atmosphere make this a good place to sample New Orleans cuisine. End the meal on a sweet note by trying the hot bread pudding with whiskey sauce ($4.99).
Our culinary adventure came to a crawl when we indulged in entomophagy, or bug eating, at the Audubon Insectarium (423 Canal Street). A bug's life and yours will cross paths at the Bug Apetit cafe, where visitors choose from delicacies such as hoppin'-herb dip or six-legged salsa. A crunchy, vanilla-covered cricket had me picking my teeth for the next hour.
NEWS AND KREWES
The unique Audubon Insectarium, which opened in 2008, features a million bugs and attracts about 400,000 visitors a year. Sit in the Termite Café and watch large Atlas beetles and creepy tarantulas crawl under your glass-top table or watch a bug awards show in the fun, 3-D theater.
In 2010, "Living with Hurricanes: Katrina and Beyond" opened in the Presbytere (751 Chartres Street). The exhibit covers 6,700 square feet and packs an emotional punch. Personal audio and video stories recount the chaos and suffering in the wake of Katrina. Human misery also is illustrated through the victims' possessions, including an ax used to hack an escape route through a roof and a mud-covered teddy bear. Visitors will be moved by the stories of resilience and disgusted by the failures of levees and government.
Our next stop was more light-hearted - the mayhem and naughtiness of Mardi Gras is hard to resist. And no parade is worth a hill of beads without floats. Blaine Kern's Mardi Gras World East (1380 Port of New Orleans Place) gives visitors a chance to see how floats are made, from concept to completion. The attraction, which opened last year, offers a behind-the-scenes tour of the enormous 400,000-square-foot facility.
The National World War II Museum (945 Magazine Street) expanded in 2009 to include the new Solomon Victory Theater, which shows "Beyond all Boundaries, " an impressive 4-D film. Snow falls during the Battle of the Bulge and seats vibrate while the audience experiences a B-17 raid over Germany. Large-scale guard towers, based on those at Buchenwald and Auschwitz, eerily rise during the segment on concentration camps.
On Aug. 27, 2010, the museum broke ground on the U.S. Freedom Pavilion: Land, Sea and Air. The new pavilion is scheduled to open next spring and will display large artifacts, including a B-17 bomber.
STROLLING THE BIG EASY
Attraction prices can quickly drain the budget. Fortunately, New Orleans is one of the best cities in America to meander.
For the best show in town, venture to the bustling Jackson Square. A bevy of street performers draws tourists, who marvel at the music or possibly discover their fate from a tarot-card reader.
Don't leave this area before visiting Cafe du Monde (800 Decatur Street), a 149-year-old meeting place that never closes. A constant flurry of fried, powdered-sugar-covered beignets and chicory coffee draws people in, before pumping them out into the hubbub of the square.
Use a guidebook or take a walking tour to learn the city's fascinating history. The LaLaurie House is believed to harbor the ghosts of mistreated servants, and Pirates Alley is thought to be the spot where Andrew Jackson conferred with pirates Jean and Pierre Lafitte about the battle of New Orleans.
After a couple of hours, historical facts can become overwhelming, so stroll down Royal Street to ogle at the antiques shops. Rest your tired feet at Royal Blend Coffee and Tea House (621 Royal Street), which has a lovely, private courtyard.
On a warm day, head south to the water. The Moon Walk, named for former Mayor Maurice "Moon" Landrieu, offers relaxing views of the paddle-wheel steamboats and cruise ships as they ply the Mississippi River. Carnival Cruise Lines and Royal Caribbean International are adding ships to New Orleans this fall.
STAYING IN THE FRENCH QUARTER
Because New Orleans should be explored on foot, accommodations in the French Quarter are worth the splurge.
Hotels range from small boutique spots to upscale chains, such as the Ritz-Carlton.
We stayed in the Bourbon Orleans Hotel (717 Orleans Street), a charming hotel located behind Jackson Square. The hotel was built in 1964, but the property dates to the early 1800s. The location made it easy to explore French Quarter attractions, and the heated saltwater pool is a great spot to reinvigorate after a day of sightseeing. One drawback, or bonus, is that its location is off Bourbon Street. Late-night partiers will enjoy the convenience of a warm bed only steps away from the exuberant night life, while others might be distracted by the noise.
Our culinary adventure came to a crawl when we indulged in entomophagy, or bug eating, at the Audubon Insectarium (423 Canal Street). A bug's life and yours will cross paths at the Bug Apetit cafe, where visitors choose from delicacies such as hoppin'-herb dip or six-legged salsa. A crunchy, vanilla-covered cricket had me picking my teeth for the next hour.
NEWS AND KREWES
The unique Audubon Insectarium, which opened in 2008, features a million bugs and attracts about 400,000 visitors a year. Sit in the Termite Café and watch large Atlas beetles and creepy tarantulas crawl under your glass-top table or watch a bug awards show in the fun, 3-D theater.
In 2010, "Living with Hurricanes: Katrina and Beyond" opened in the Presbytere (751 Chartres Street). The exhibit covers 6,700 square feet and packs an emotional punch. Personal audio and video stories recount the chaos and suffering in the wake of Katrina. Human misery also is illustrated through the victims' possessions, including an ax used to hack an escape route through a roof and a mud-covered teddy bear. Visitors will be moved by the stories of resilience and disgusted by the failures of levees and government.
Our next stop was more light-hearted - the mayhem and naughtiness of Mardi Gras is hard to resist. And no parade is worth a hill of beads without floats. Blaine Kern's Mardi Gras World East (1380 Port of New Orleans Place) gives visitors a chance to see how floats are made, from concept to completion. The attraction, which opened last year, offers a behind-the-scenes tour of the enormous 400,000-square-foot facility.
The National World War II Museum (945 Magazine Street) expanded in 2009 to include the new Solomon Victory Theater, which shows "Beyond all Boundaries, " an impressive 4-D film. Snow falls during the Battle of the Bulge and seats vibrate while the audience experiences a B-17 raid over Germany. Large-scale guard towers, based on those at Buchenwald and Auschwitz, eerily rise during the segment on concentration camps.
On Aug. 27, 2010, the museum broke ground on the U.S. Freedom Pavilion: Land, Sea and Air. The new pavilion is scheduled to open next spring and will display large artifacts, including a B-17 bomber.
STROLLING THE BIG EASY
Attraction prices can quickly drain the budget. Fortunately, New Orleans is one of the best cities in America to meander.
For the best show in town, venture to the bustling Jackson Square. A bevy of street performers draws tourists, who marvel at the music or possibly discover their fate from a tarot-card reader.
Don't leave this area before visiting Cafe du Monde (800 Decatur Street), a 149-year-old meeting place that never closes. A constant flurry of fried, powdered-sugar-covered beignets and chicory coffee draws people in, before pumping them out into the hubbub of the square.
Use a guidebook or take a walking tour to learn the city's fascinating history. The LaLaurie House is believed to harbor the ghosts of mistreated servants, and Pirates Alley is thought to be the spot where Andrew Jackson conferred with pirates Jean and Pierre Lafitte about the battle of New Orleans.
After a couple of hours, historical facts can become overwhelming, so stroll down Royal Street to ogle at the antiques shops. Rest your tired feet at Royal Blend Coffee and Tea House (621 Royal Street), which has a lovely, private courtyard.
On a warm day, head south to the water. The Moon Walk, named for former Mayor Maurice "Moon" Landrieu, offers relaxing views of the paddle-wheel steamboats and cruise ships as they ply the Mississippi River. Carnival Cruise Lines and Royal Caribbean International are adding ships to New Orleans this fall.
STAYING IN THE FRENCH QUARTER
Because New Orleans should be explored on foot, accommodations in the French Quarter are worth the splurge.
Hotels range from small boutique spots to upscale chains, such as the Ritz-Carlton.
We stayed in the Bourbon Orleans Hotel (717 Orleans Street), a charming hotel located behind Jackson Square. The hotel was built in 1964, but the property dates to the early 1800s. The location made it easy to explore French Quarter attractions, and the heated saltwater pool is a great spot to reinvigorate after a day of sightseeing. One drawback, or bonus, is that its location is off Bourbon Street. Late-night partiers will enjoy the convenience of a warm bed only steps away from the exuberant night life, while others might be distracted by the noise.